Travel and Day 0

Day 0, ready to go

A few days before our flight I picked up a box from a local bike shop, one less box for them to break down.  The bike fit by removing the front wheel, fender and rack along with the pedals and pulling out the seat post and handlebars.  I loosened the rear fender so it sit snug against the back wheel and box.  I’ve read more than a few trip reports that started with bikes damaged in shipping so I tried my best to see that everything was secure and protected.  I cut a piece of wood to fit between the forks for added protection and wrapped most of the frame in pipe insulations along with the forks and top of the seat tube.  The bike fit snug, not too loose or too tight so I felt confident it was well protected.  I took one of my rear panniers as a carryon and stuffed the other three into a large duffel bag.  

Need to fit into this box
Fully disassembled

Michelle dropped me off at the airport with the bike before dropping off the car so we didn’t have to worry about fitting it in the shuttle.  Getting my box and bags in the airport was easier than expected since the checkin was right inside the door.  When I dropped the bike at security they looked a bit perplexed.  I heard one say it won’t fit in the scanner and saw her grab for a knife.  A few swipes later my box was opened with two agents rummaging around.  So much for my careful packing.

After landing in Seattle we both traveled to the car rental facility leaving the bike at the airport.  Getting the box on the shuttle didn’t look feasible and it did give me an opportunity to test out the Apple AirTag I have stashed on the bike.  From the rental desk I could see the bike sitting at the airport, cool.   Car rentals are insane now! We paid more for our car rental than the plane tickets and we only rented a normal full size sedan.  The back seats dropped down so the whole bike box just slid inside.

Survived shipping, now I need to assemble

The next day I assembled the bike and brought it over to a bike shop for a quick tuneup.  I meant to call last week and make an appointment but completely forgot.  The gears could use a little adjusting so I figured best to get it professionally adjusted before heading into the Cascades.  They were crazy busy, as are all bike shops around here for some reason, I guess the riding season beginning, but since I’m heading out in a couple days they agreed to take a quick look.  They only charged me $10 labor.  When did you last get anything done for $10.  Thanks Skagit Cycle Center!

I went out and bought food for the first few days and reorganized my gear after stuffing everything in a duffel bag. Things were not fitting as planned, bags were overflowing.  I laid out all my get into two piles, essentials and non essentials making difficult choices.  I decided to pair down my clothes a bit and drop a few items like my rain pants.  If it rains I still have a jacket to stay mostly dry and the weather forecast for the next 10 days looks great so I should avoid the cold mountain weather I had feared months ago.  I’ll send some items home with Michelle.

Weeks ago I made reservations for the first few nights as campgrounds seemed to be booking up in the area.  All weekends starting in June were fully booked.  I want to stay close to the start of the Washington pass climb the night before which is about 100 miles away so I’ll break that into two days for an easy start.  First night will be in Concrete at Rasar State Park, about 57 miles away.  The second day will be super short, only about 45 miles to Colonial Creek Campground on Diablo Lake, right at the start of the climb.  Third day is my concern, my first mountain climb up to 5,000+ feet.  I’m staying that night at the Pine Near RV park in Winthrop.  Finding accommodations the following days shouldn’t be too difficult.

We spent the last couple days on Camano Island in a house on the water owned by Michelle’s friends she made while walking the Camino de Santiago (her retirement trip). They’ve been super helpful along with giving me some pointers on places to stop as I ride through the Cascades.  Thank you Julie and Carolyn!  I start tomorrow morning around 8:30.

In front of Julie and Catherines house
Rear view
Front view

Expectations

I thought it would be interesting to write out some of my pre trip expectations to see how they pan out as the riding unfolds.

Route

As stated I will follow the Northern Tier Route mapped out by the Adventure Cycling Association but with different start and finish points. My start on Camano Island is only about 30 miles south of Anacortes. My finish will be home in Danbury, Connecticut. I don’t plan on veering off route until I get to the Erie Canal where the route heads north a bit east of Buffalo. I will follow the canal all the way to Albany and take the Empire State trail (some trail, some road) south to Brewster, New York then head east to Danbury. I have some decisions to make about alternate routes the ACA has mapped out for example you can avoid climbing Logan pass with one of these alternatives. There’s also a spur that heads north into Glacier National Park and into Canada but with the border still closed that’s not a possibility. I may try to find a route through some of glacier. So I don’t really know what my total distance will be. The complete northern tier is about 4,300 miles but I expect my ride to be about 3,800. I should finish in about 45-50 days.

Riding

I hope to get early starts around 7:00am to take advantage of cool mornings with less traffic. I would like to wrap up by mid afternoon around 3:00-4:00 to avoid some of the days heat. The eight or nine hours time will include stops for food, water, or photography so I should spend about 6 hours a day in the saddle. I expect to average about 70-80 mile a day depending conditions. I will start off peddling my bike and finish peddling my bike preferably with no walking or motorized vehicles in between.

Accommodations

I’m bringing full camping gear along with a stove, intent on camp most nights, 5 or 6 nights a week.  I see camping as part of the experience. I know there will be nights where the weather, mosquitoes or my own fatigue will find the call of air conditioning, endless hot showers, and a bed irresistible. I do hope to camp as much as possible, saving hotel days for when the weather or conditions are particularly bad. I’ve heard many people rave about Warm Showers but I rather spend my evenings chilling by myself rather than hanging with my host.

Food

Cooking meals has a significant cost in added weight. While I want to camp most nights I want to eat most dinners in restaurants.  I’ll cook oatmeal and coffee for breakfast which is just boiling water.  I would like to stop for a second breakfast or brunch after a couple hours riding.  Breakfast food is cheap and filling, negating the need for a larger lunch.  I’ll bring tortillas and peanut/almond butter or Nutella for lunch or snacks.  Tortilla are very dense and packable.  For nights where I can’t eat out I’ll keep a couple nights rice and beans on hand. 

Navigation

I bought both the digital and paper maps from the Adventure Cycling Association.  The digital maps are provided through the “Bicycle Route” app on the phone which I expect to be my main navigator.  The paper maps are split into about a dozen maps, each has a description of the area and panels the break the ride down into 20-50 mile segments including information about services. I bought them as a backup to the digital maps and as an easier way to peruse the upcoming days for route planning.

Weather

My main weather concern is the first week in the Cascade which could be cool and wet especially at elevation.  I’m trying to avoid carrying too much gear I may never use but balancing that with the expected cool mornings. If days are unusually cold or extremely wet I can stay in hotels rather than camp. Storms in the midwest can be extreme. Not much I can do but pay attention to the forecasts and weather maps.

Clothes

I know I’m brining more clothes than necessary but I prefer doing laundry over hand washing every night.  With my clothes choices I should be able to go a week with only a couple days of hand washing. I’m not bringing much of anything for long shirts or pants.  Just one pair of convertible pants, primarily for off bike wear.  I have a lightweight hoody which works well for cool riding in the high 50’s.  For cooler weather I have leg and arm warmers.  I can also layer on my rain gear and sweatshirt if the weather gets too cold.

Safety

Certainly a concern, primarily around distracted drivers. I’ll keep my rear flasher on all the time and wear my high vis vest when I feel a bit unsafe.  I don’t have much concern about theft or other criminal activity but I will lock my bike at night and keep valuables in my tent. Of course I’ll bring it all in when staying in a hotel. I don’t intend on leaving the bike locked and unattended for long periods of time, just quick trips into stores or whatever.

Rest Days

I don’t have any planned rest days but I’m sure I will take some. I don’t expect to take weekly days off, more like every 10-14 days or so. I’ll try to time these for when the weather is particularly bad or when I feel like I really need a break. I’m not planning or renting a car or doing any other kind of motorized traveling while on tour. I want the whole trip to be only by bike.

Gear

fully loaded touring bike
My fully loaded rig, all 85 pounds without food or water

I started planning for this trip about 5 years ago as retirement prospects became more of a reality.  I needed a capable bike since my old road and mountain bikes were not suitable to bike touring.  I bought a Surly Long Haul Disc Trucker, a popular touring bike road tested by many.  It’s a heavy bike weighing in at about 37 pounds with my racks and fenders, a beast compared to a svelte 15 lb road bike.  The frame is steel not aluminum or carbon, partly to stand up to the abuse and also to give a somewhat softer ride.  The components are stock build circa 2015 so typical Shimano, Tecktro, Avid, and Continental gear with the following additions:

  • Racks: 
    • Front: Tubus Cosmo
    • Rear Tubus Nova
  • Fenders:  Velo Orange Hammered alloy
  • Pedals: Shimano A530, SPD one side, platform the other so I can ride clipped in, or not. I like being able to clip out of one pedal and ride the platform when in stop and go situations
  • Saddle: Brooks B17, classic leather saddle. Has taken a long time to break in but gets more comfortable with each ride. This was an update this year.

I see a wide range of gear selection when reading other peoples trip journals. Some prefer to only stay in hotels or Warm Showers accommodations which aside from the increased comfort factor substantially reduces your gear requirements.  Others camp and carry everything they could possibly ever use.  I’m certainly far from minimalist but I could carry more. I plan on camping most days so I opted for more comfortable camping gear which adds some bulk and weight. 

I’m carrying my gear in front and rear panniers with my tent and a couple other items strapped to the back rack.  I have a rack bag but didn’t bring it thinking it would just encourage me to carry too much gear.

I know I’m carrying about twice the clothes I need.  Many follow the “wear one wash one” routine with an additional set of off bike clothes and maybe one or two cold weather items but I’m leaning more towards less regular hand washing with weekly laundry. We’ll see if I regret this decision. I’m also unsure about the weather. How wet will it be? How cold, especially in the mountains in June? I’m not all decked out like a typical cyclist.  I see no reason to dress like a spandex warrior, this is not the Tour de France.  I’m wearing t-shirts of the performance variety (not cotton) and regular or mountain bike shorts.  Bike tourers look crazy enough as it is, no need to look like a freak when entering local businesses. 

My bags and gear together weight about forty pounds but consider the bags alone are 8 pounds.  Combined with my bike I’m lugging around about 85 pounds without food or water so figure somewhere around 100 pounds fully loaded.

My Gear list

Shirts

  • Riding t-shirts: 3, not taking any typical cycling shirts, just active wear t-shirts 
  • Riding button down: a mountain bike variety. Can double as a town shirt

Shorts/pants

  • Riding shorts: 3
  • Long convertible pants: 1, my only long pants

Socks and underwear

  • Socks: 4 ankle length Smartwool running socks
  • Underwear: 4 briefs, Exofficio, awesome for hot weather or travel, light and dry quickly
  • Padded liners: 3

Shoes

  • Cycling shoes: Shimano Torbal SPD mountain bike shoes
  • Off bike shoes: old running shoes
  • Sandals: Birkenstocks, Arizona EVA: For showers or other wet conditions

Wet or cold weather

  • Rain jacket: North Face shell, I ditched the rain pants, too much space for little value.  Keep my upper body dry and warm and I should be fine for wet days which should be few and not cold. If really bad I’ll just take a rest day
  • Leg and arm warmers: I’m not brining any long sleeves other than a lightweight hoody and a sweatshirt.  I have no long riding pants but I could use the convertible pants if needed. The warmers should be all I need for cold mornings, add the hoody and/or sweatshirt if super cold
  • Shoe covers: mostly for rain or a little warmth if necessary
  • Lightweight Hoody: good for cool starts
  • Hooded sweatshirt: most likely just for mornings and evenings around camp

Camping

  • Tent, Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2: Two person really means on person with a little extra room.  I could save some weight and space with just a UL1 but the size/weight savings isn’t all that much
  • Sleeping bag, 30 degree Feathered Friends with Sea to Summit compression sack
  • Sleeping bag liner/sheet: protects the bag and adds some warmth, good alone for warm nights
  • Sleeping pad, Nemo tensor: A couple inches thick, surprisingly comfortable
  • Pillows: Two for added comfort and selection.  Aeros is super small and light
    • Sea to Summit Aeros
    • Nemo Fillo
  • Camp stove, MSR Windburner 1L: Really just for boiling water for coffee, oatmeal, rice, or heating up canned/packaged food
  • Fuel canister

Technology

  • Laptop: M1 MacBook Pro, Certainly adds weight and likely unnecessary for most but I want to keep up with my photos in Lightroom and greatly prefer typing on a keyboard rather than phone for journal updates
  • Camera: Olympus EM1 MK2 with 12-40mm lens, I like photography but I’m limiting myself to just this lens.
  • Jobby Tripod: My “selfie stick”
  • Phone: iPhone XS
  • AirPods: I won’t use these when riding but I will listen to books, podcasts and music in the morning and evening. My kindle didn’t make the final cut since I can listen to audiobooks instead
  • Watch: Apple Watch, mostly for heart rate data
  • Apple AirTag: Maybe I shouldn’t state this publicly but I stashed one on my bike so in the event it gets stolen I have a chance at tracking it down.
  • Power strip, for more efficient charging. With phone, camera, computer and lights I have a lot to charge
  • Extension cord: 15’, a suggestion from another trip journal.  May sound excessive but often allows for charing overnight inside your tent
  • Portable charger: 20000mAh
  • ACA maps: because technology often fails
  • Power strip/surge protector: by Poweriver, my favorite piece of travel gear has always been a small power strip, allows for charging multiple devices from a singe outlet plus some protection from surges
  • Charging cables and supplies
  • Navigation iPhone app: Bicycle Route Navigator app by Adventure Cycling, these are my digital maps and how I expect to do most of my on bike navigation
  • Cycle computer: Cateye Padrone, typical speed, mileage, etc
  • Cadence Sensor: Wahoo, linked bluetooth to my phone
  • Cyclemeter iPhone app: Great app to track GPS, heart rate, cadence, speed, elevation and other data.

Health and Safety

  • Repair kit: tools, extra bike bolts, tape, 5’ bailing wire, other stuff
    • Leatherman multitool
    • Crankbrothers bike multitool
    • chain lube
  • First aid kit, usual first aide supplies
  • Chamois butt’r: avoid saddle sores
  • Sun block
  • Bug juice
  • Dual Eyeglasses, sunglass and yellow lens, with bifocal reading, allows me to easily ready my phone and bike computer while riding
  • Rear flashing light: Cygo hotshot pro, I have 2 so one is always charged. I plan to keep this on all the time. A single charge last 24 hours of continuous use.
  • Front light: Cygo Metro pro 1,100 lumen
  • Lock: I know cable locks offer practically zero security for a determined thief but I’m just looking to thwart crimes of opportunity
  • Identification: RoadID bracelet. Like a medical ID bracelet with contact information and how to find out more information about insurance, etc
  • High Visibility Vest: I may not wear this all the time but certainly in congested areas or narrow roads. I think me rear flashing light should be very visible.
  • Toiletry bag: usual stuff

Food (to start)

  • Breakfast: starting with a week supply of oatmeal
  • Lunch: tortillas, nutella, almond butter
  • Dinner: Hope to eat most dinners out but carrying 2 dinners of cooked rice and packaged beans or dal so I can just combine and heat on the stove
  • Snacks: trail mix, nuts, bars
  • Water: 3 bottles on the bike and a 3L dromedary bag if services are far apart

Bags

  • Front: Ortlieb Front Roller Classic, these will hold my clothes and wet/cold weather gear
  • Rear: Ortlieb Back Roller Classic, camping gear, food, and everything else
  • Handlebar: Ortlieb Ultimate 6 Classic, mostly for easy camera access, glasses, wallet and other small items

Miscellaneous

  • Paracord: 25’, laundry line, hanging food from animals or tying stuff down
  • Towel, Rainleaf microfiber. I hate these towels but the are lightweight and dry fast
  • Inflatable seat cushion, Lightspeed: For sitting on the ground or added comfort for picnic tables
  • Camp light, Goal Zero Crushlight, solar/USB charge: weighs nothing and takes up little space
gear
All my gear. A few items didn’t make the final cut and I swapped out a couple
gear with bags
Gear laid out with the bags
handlebar bag
Handlebar bag for my camera, glasses, wallet and such
items strapped to back rack
Tent, sandals, tripod and lock will be strapped to the back rack

The Northern Tier

Norther Tier bike route as mapped by the Adventure Cycling Association. My start and finish will be different but I will mostly follow this route

The Adventure Cycling Association is a bicycle touring advocacy group that maps a number of bike routes around the country.  My cross country ride will follow the Northern Tier which starts in Anacortes, Washington and ends in Bar Harbor, Maine, 4,300 miles later.  I will ride a slightly modified route starting about thirty miles south on Camano Island where we have friends with a beach house.  Rather than finishing in Bar Harbor I prefer to ride directly home to Danbury, Connecticut.  The official route follows the Erie Canal trail east of Buffalo, New York for while before veering north into the Adirondacks then east to Vermont, New Hampshire and finally Maine. My plan is to stay on the Erie Canal to Albany, NY then head south to home. The route south of Albany will follow part of the Empire State Trail, New York states 750 miles of rail trail and road trails linking New York City north to Canada and Albany west to Buffalo. The Maybrook and Dutches County rail trails are part of this network connecting New Paltz, NY to Brewster, NY, where I rode many miles training for this ride.

I haven’t spent much time planning mid route options. With the Canadian border still closed I probably will not ride the Glacier National Park alternative route. There are a few other alternative routes along the way that need to be sorted out as they get closer. My modified route should be about 3,800 miles.

For navigation I will use digital maps on the Bicycle Route Navigator app by the ACA.  I also bought the old school paper maps which are very informative plus technology always fails at the worse possible time. The paper maps split the route into 11 maps with descriptions of the area, services available along the way and enlarged tiles for about every 50 miles.

Adventure Cycling paper map
Adventure Cycling paper maps. Route consists of 11 maps broken into tiles.
Adventure Cycling paper map
Each tile has a lot of useful information about service, elevation profile, annual weather and history.

Wandering Ruskis Revived

Us (John (me), Sierra, Savanna, Michelle) the day before leaving on our round the world trip in 2012

I registered this domain back in 2011 to document our upcoming round the world trip in a blog but I underestimated how much “free” time we would have while on the road. Full time travel is a full time job not vacation for a year.  Over the course of a year we only made about a half dozen posts. Out of embarrassment I hid those post for this new Wandering Ruski focus, for now at least.

A lot has happened since the above photo was taken on July 9 2012, the day before our departure. From July 10 2012 to July 10 2013 we:

  • Flew to London for week
  • Rode the Chunnel to Paris
  • Drove around Europe for a month
  • Spent a couple weeks in Greece
  • Flew to Morocco for a month 
  • Flew to Egypt for a month
  • Traveled around Namibia and Botswana for a month on a self driven safari in a truck with rooftop tents
  • Spent a few months traveling around south east Asia
  • Maxed out our 3 month Australia visa including a month renting a house in Perth and a month+ driving around the country in an RV
  • Hopped over to Fiji, Hawaii and then home

All totaled, 19 countries plus Hawaii.

Once back to normal life we continued to take family trips to destinations like Honduras, Jamaica, Mexico, Arizona, Iceland, Hawaii, and Florida.  Savanna and I took an annual dive trips to places like Honduras, Cozumel, Belize, Tobago, Barbados, and our favorite, Bonaire.

So there’s 9 years worth of blog posts in a few bullet point.  I’ll try to be better with this new blog.

Of course a lot else has happened over this time.  A few years ago Sierra graduated high school and is now attending the University of Maryland.  Savanna just graduated high school and will also attend UMD in the fall. Michelle retired from work a few years ago and I also retired earlier this year.

For years my plan for immediately after retiring was to take a cross country bike ride.  The kernel of and idea dates back about 30 years, when I was buying my first mountain bike just after college.  The salesman mentioned he rode a mountain bike cross country.  I never considered such an idea but found it very intriguing.  My plan back then was to quite my job after a few years and hike the Appalachian trail.  Thankfully I never did since 30 years at the same company has allowed me to retire at the ripe young age of 53, along with meeting Michelle which has led to everything else in my adult life. 

About fifteen years later we were on a cross country flight, Sierra was about 5 years old.  As we looked out the window at the country passing below Sierra asked how long would it take to fly across country?.  I said about 6 hours. She asked how long would it take to drive? So I replied about 6 days.  I said some day I want to ride my bike across country. She asked how long will that take?  I said “about 6 weeks. Do you want to ride with me?”. She said “No! Why would I want to do that?”.  Most people find this a little crazy, intriguing but crazy. 

Many people asked if I will document my trip anywhere so I’m reviving this blog for daily updates of my progress.  I will also post abbreviated updates on Instagram. Over the years I spent many hours reading other peoples trip journals which I found entertaining and insightful so I hope others can virtually join my travels and maybe learn a thing or two about bike touring.  Perhaps a few will be inspired to make the ride.

Michelle and I have a lot of plans for the upcoming year including sailing lessons, an extended Caribbean or Hawaii trip and hopefully Italy next spring for our 25th wedding anniversary. The obvious place for updates is Facebook but I hate Facebook.

Oh, the name, let me explain “Wandering Ruski’s”.  The wandering part is obvious but Ruski maybe not.  It’s not some kind of racial slur or anything.  Michelle’s maiden name is Russell so RUssell SikorSKI.